Day 11: Namche Bazar to Ghat

 


25 May 2024

It was extremely warm or even hot in the night. I discarded one layer sometime around 1230 and could sleep after that.

Although today we were to walk long distance most of it was going down. Hence, we were not much worried. So far Gods had been on our side and I was pretty sure that they would carry us for these two days. At about 7 I finally got out of bed. Quickly got ready to move and headed to the dining room downstairs.

Tashi

When we had come to Namche Bazaar, we had walked around 15 kilo meters. Out of which 7 was complete ascent with rapid altitude gain. Today, we were to lose the altitude and get back into low altitude zone. Also, Ghat is very green. That was going to be an advantage.



We had good breakfast of momos, Tsempa Porridge and Omelette with tea and coffee before starting today’s odyssey at 8 AM. When we were leaving, the lady of the house, Pasang Sherpa who is the owner of The Sherpa Village came to see us off. We shook hands and then she was constantly chanting some Buddhist mantras. Tashi, her nephew whom I had befriended previous evening told me that she was praying for our safety in further journey. It was a touching moment. A complete stranger praying for us… (This is why I love travelling!!! You meet good people everywhere!)

Pasang aii (Elder sister) 

The shops at the bazar were just opening. They had real good stuff. Everything was way too tempting. Since last few years I’ve made it a point to buy only that is necessary so I just looked at the stuff before walking off.

The trek was pretty easy but crowded as many people were returning from their adventure. And many were going up too. We exchanged good luck wishes with many and kept marching ahead. Soon we reached Hillary Bridge. (The original Hillary Bridge is now a bungee jumping station and the higher bridge named Larche Dobhan serves the trekkers.)

Here, Gauri wanted to make a reel of herself running on the bridge. But there were so many people crossing from both sides. Amruta and I waited over 20 minutes on the opposite side just to record her running. But when we saw that porters wouldn’t take a break, we decided to abandon the plan and started walking ahead. Meantime met a friend of Ngima who passed our message to him about us leaving.

Some couple of kilo meters from this bridge we passed by the restaurant where we had spent more than an hour for lunch when we were going towards EBC.  And then there was a climb. I thought that was our last climb of the day. We had reached the gate of Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. So here we officially exited from Sagarmatha National Park. I was somewhat emotional.  

Around 100 meters from this check post, we took a quick break of 20 minutes for coffee. Ngima was worried about our lunch. I told him we would reach Ghat, and then Yangdi, his wife can prepare omelettes for us and we would be happy eating that for lunch. He wasn’t expecting that. He then called Yangdi and informed her about our plan. We were some 6 kilo meters away from Ghat at this time.

Now we passed through small settlements of Benker and Toktok. At Phakding we could see the monastery up on the hill. This was first time that I had seen a monastery and walked past it. In fact, I had ignored all the monasteries on this trail. Such a shame!

Anyway, we soon arrived at Ghat. The distance that my watch recorded was about 2 kilo meters lesser than what we had recorded on the way up. I wondered why. Ngima said, he brought us down through a short cut. Then we all laughed over it and let it go.

After lunch, I wanted to sleep but one important task was pending. We had to clear our accounts with each other and with Ngima. Amruta and I sat down with pen and paper and Gauri took over conversions of currencies. We had spent in both Indian and Nepalese currencies.

Then, we spoke to Ngima about the accounts. He was ok with that. We made an envelope of tip for Surendra.

Ngima and I chatted about other probabilities of this trek. Kind of business talks etc. And then the last part of the day: our daily chat about next day. Ghat to Lukla is just about 6 kilo meters. I told him that we would start late around 10 or something like as it would take just 3 hours to walk and we would still be in Lukla for lunch. He was ok with it.

Frankly, I would have preferred to stay at Ghat for 2 days and relax and just walk early morning to Lukla catch a flight and go to Kathmandu directly. Ngima warned us that meant we would have to start early in the morning at about 4 AM and probably miss the 6.35 flight and take a later flight. I would avoid such a mess on any day. So, it was agreed that we would start at 10 AM next morning.

Radish Pickle

At about 8 PM we went for dinner. It was simple dal bhat with Mula ka Achar – the pickled radish. And now that it had marinated, it tasted heavenly.

We were in mid of having dinner when a group arrived with a guide and porter. I recollected having seen the porter just a day or two somewhere on the trek. This group had walked from Paiyya which was like more than 18 kilo meters away from Ghat. That meant the porter had carried the load from some higher spot to Lukla just a day or two back and was back at Ghat with another load. So much of hard work… I have many questions as to why people in the valley have remained financially destitute even after 70 years of first summit and over 100 years of Everest expeditions.

This new group was out for 3 passes trek and they had already been to EBC previous year. They were all Nepalese. We didn’t chat much and after dinner, we quickly went to our rooms.

As expected, there was no reply from the GoI’s ministry of External Affairs as it was a Saturday. Yet, I was rather tensed. I kept thinking what to do about this wrongly placed immigration stamp. I was scrolling through Facebook rather absent mindedly. Then I saw a post on Facebook made by someone I felt can help. Thankfully, I had spoken to this person on few earlier occasions about various things. So rather hesitatingly, at 930 PM I sent them a message, I wasn’t expecting a immediate reply. But to my surprise they
replied. We had a good and quick WhatsApp messaging and they gave me an email address to communicate the issue. I sent the email promptly and peacefully went to sleep.



Stats for the day:  25 May 2024

 Starting Point:   The Sherpa Village Namche Bazaar

 Starting Time:  08:00 AM

 Altitude at Starting Point:  3442 meters ASL

 Ending Point: The Milam Lodge, Ghat

 End Time: 02:30 PM

 Altitude at End Point: 2677 meters ASL

 Paused Time: 20 minutes (Tea Break at Monjo) 

Highest Altitude: 3462 meters ASL

Distance:  12.67 kilo meters

 (Data As per Amazfit TRex Pro)