Day 5 - Pangboche to Dingboche

  


19 May 2024

We woke up around 530 and got ready for breakfast. My stomach had acted up so I decided to skip eggs. I requested to cancel the breakfast of bread omelette and asked if they could serve me hashbrowns or roasty. They allowed that. I decided to skip dates and figs from this day onwards.

As discussed on the prior day, the hike was going to be short and easy. Now that Surendra was to carry lighter load, I casually told him to return somewhere in between and carry our daypacks to the hotel. Then we both laughed over it. He left almost like a bullet from Pangboche some half an hour before us. We started at about 8 AM.

The initial route was through the lower Pangboche which was an easy climb. Then we crossed a small bridge when we saw a helicopter way too close. I was startled and was looking at it. Then Amruta who was some 20 meters behind me at this point had started walking in opposite direction and it was a bit too fast. When I noticed it, I shouted really loud to stop her. She started walking towards me.


We had quick chat about this. This was her first time beyond 4000 meters and I didn’t want any unpleasant experience for her. Thankfully, she took it in right sense. Then she pointed out a board behind me which read “Way to Ama Dablam Base Camp”. There was a moment of disappointment that I let pass and clicked picture. Ama Dablam was mostly behind the clouds. We started walking together towards Dingboche.

After around one and half kilo meter of arduous climb from this board, we reached at settlement known as Shomare. Here we had a quick Tea Break. Time was 10 AM.

Now there were hardly any trees seen. The soil also seemed dry and there were mainly bushes of dwarf Rhododendrons aka Junipers. The houses with their stone walled fences looked amazing from high route. The plateau had some mani stones and few prayer flags too. Imja Khola was seen. Today the river didn’t seem as scary like yesterday. 


A few minutes later, I saw the route beyond the river going upwards. Ngima said it was the route we were to take. I wondered if we had to cross the river which was flowing straight from the glacier. He said there’s a bridge ahead.

The access to the bridge was after descending good 50 or 60 steps, and then climbing a steep. Girls and Ngima took a break at the top of the stairs, I confirmed the route and walked ahead. This is when I saw one lady from the American senior citizens group whom I had met day before previous day after leaving Phungi Thenga.

Her name was Cathleen and she was 74 years old. The guide was with her throughout and she was carrying her backpack. She will inspire me all my life.

I took a small break here and then there were winds. Cold winds… Too Chilly. I zipped up my jacket and pulled the cap before walking ahead. Here I met a lady porter for first time. She didn’t know Hindi so we spoke in English. She said she had started from Deboche and was to deliver the stuff at Dingboche and reach Pheriche before nightfall. I was left aghast. The girls and Ngima caught up with me.

Then, there was a man who was seating idle and staring through his sunglasses. Then Amruta said, Since Surendra has returned, I guess we are close. That is when I realised that this man was Surendra. He offered to take Amruta’s backpack, and we insisted that she does that. Now, Surendra started walking with us.

Then there were chortens. There were few more chortens on a hill on left side. Ngima said tomorrow we will go there for acclimatization hike. I felt really good when I realised that tomorrow was our Rest Day.

I  wanted to hurry but then I saw some barberries and few other flowers on the bushes. The cloud cover was now gone and it was bright sunny. The pictures didn’t come out good.

When I had taken out fresh clothes in morning, I had decided to wear one full sleeved dry fit T-shirt with another full sleeved fleece T-shirt and the wind proof! I was sweating again. We had entered the settlement of Dingboche and Ngima showed me Café 4410 in Dingboche. He said we will go there in evening. He wanted to eat Pani Puri. My stomach had acted weird in morning and I didn’t want to risk eating anything spicey.

Some 50 meters ahead of this café was our home for two days. Yak Lodge. We headed to the restaurant first. Time was 1 PM. I asked for Mushroom RaRa Noodles and girls ate some rice and noodles.

The first thing that I had noticed when I entered the restaurant was the Polish flag which Jerzy Kukuczka written boldly on it. I hadn’t taken time to see it properly so before leaving the restaurant I read what was written on it. This moment I was at yet another level of emotions. 

Here again we three were to share the room. The afternoon was combination of ice fall and rains. I didn’t want to but I kept slipping into slumber. Amruta kept waking me up from to time.

Dinner was served sizzling hot, it felt too good there. Ngima said we can rest until late in morning. It was another good thing. A good day on this dream hike had ended with too many good things.

 Stats for the day:  19 May 2024

 Starting Point:   Buddha Lodge, Lower Pangboche

 Starting Time:  08:01 AM

 Altitude at Starting Point:  3916 meters ASL

 Ending Point: Yak Lodge, Dingboche

End Time: 01:10 PM

 Altitude at End Point: 4324 meters ASL

 Paused Time: 0:00 hours (Should have paused at Shomare, the break lasted for 25 minutes) 

Highest Altitude: 4351 meters ASL

Distance:  06.80 kilo meters

 (Data As per Amazfit TRex Pro)